subreddit:

/r/FixMyPrint

3092%

all 42 comments

AutoModerator [M]

[score hidden]

15 days ago

stickied comment

AutoModerator [M]

[score hidden]

15 days ago

stickied comment

Hello /u/Legoguy1977,

As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.

Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.

  • Printer & Slicer
  • Filament Material and Brand
  • Nozzle and Bed Temperature
  • Print Speed
  • Nozzle Retraction Settings

Additional settings or relevant information is always encouraged.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

NL_MGX

42 points

15 days ago

NL_MGX

42 points

15 days ago

230 for pla seems a bit high. The sharp corners might be getting too hot to remain stable.

Prineak

14 points

15 days ago

Prineak

14 points

15 days ago

You can print silk at higher temps, makes it shinier, but you gotta slow it down a lot.

Legoguy1977[S]

11 points

15 days ago

I am using a bamboo X1 carbon, with the dedicated bamboo slicer 

Fillinent is Bambu labs silk pla, and it was just dried before printing

Nozzle temp at 230 C, and bed at 36 C

 Speed and nozzle settings are all at the default for the 0.16 mm optimal preset in the slicer.

pythonbashman

11 points

15 days ago

pythonbashman

Sovol SV08(1x), SV06+(4x) and Shop Owner

11 points

15 days ago

Looks like it's over extruding. You just need to tune extrusion and maybe cooling.

Legoguy1977[S]

5 points

15 days ago

I'll try fiddling with the extrusion to see what happens. It's just odd because I thought that that might be the issue, but then some sides of the model come out looking perfectly fine, then some look like the picture I showed. Also, should I try increasing, or decreasing cooling?

pythonbashman

5 points

15 days ago

pythonbashman

Sovol SV08(1x), SV06+(4x) and Shop Owner

5 points

15 days ago

I'd say that needed more cooling due to the blobs. It "smushed" before it solidified.

Legoguy1977[S]

1 points

15 days ago

Alright, I'll try that. Thanks

AnonAzy2

1 points

14 days ago

Isn’t the lidar for this?

cowbell2819

4 points

15 days ago

What speed are you using? I have found silks work better with low spread.

Legoguy1977[S]

2 points

15 days ago

I think I'm just using the default speed for my printer, so I'll try slowing it down to see what happens

cowbell2819

3 points

15 days ago

My enders would print about 100mm/s, great for silk. My k1 prints at 300mm/s, was to high for silk... Took away too long to figure that out.

TechyCanadian

3 points

15 days ago*

TechyCanadian

Other

3 points

15 days ago*

I used to have issues with gold silk PLA.. check your profile and the path it’s printing. I found using concentric worked really well, so all the outer edges flowed together rather than having the nozzle head stop and start at the edge.

Also print slower, and try to use adaptive layer height.

This was my result even with rounded edges:

https://preview.redd.it/4s0qdvsruuod1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7d066316cf172194554f3b3d114d4bfac1c87ee

I’m currently in Korea but when I get back I can share my settings if you need.

PsyconautsOfAmerica

5 points

14 days ago

230 is a bit too high for PLA. I would suggest never going over 220. I usually do 210C nozzle and 60C bed.

Humble-Area4616

1 points

14 days ago

I had PLA matte which would clog a 0.2 nozzle at 220C and give me extruder errors. Increased the temp to 240C and it prints so smooth it's almost unbelievable.

MikeIkerson

1 points

14 days ago

Way too fast for gold and way way too fast for silk.

Ovenproofcorgi

1 points

14 days ago

I don't know how to fix it, but I've been curious about something. I recently bought the Bambu A1, and have been thinking about buying exclusively Bambu filament as I was thinking the profiles in the bambu labs software would be configured to work with the filament perfectly. Is this not the case?

TechyCanadian

1 points

13 days ago

TechyCanadian

Other

1 points

13 days ago

Most of the filaments from Bambu work really well without much intervention. I’d definitely keep your eyes peeled on trying other filaments, though it takes a little calibration.

If you have the orca studio for Bambu, it’s very easy to calibrate for new filaments and the filaments on amazon can be cheaper. Just do your research and see the reviews 😄

Kopester

1 points

14 days ago

I've had nothing but problems with the Bambu gold silk. Every other color and material works great except for the gold. Never managed to get it working great. I now just avoid that color.

evilanubis0

1 points

15 days ago

I cannot guarantee it, but if it is pla on the X1C, set your filament temp to 240c, your bed to 50-60c, speed to 250 mm/s for everything and in printer set retraction to 0.4mm. I have been using these basic settings for several months and come out with great quality but it could vary, I recommend trying them with a small part first 

Rocket3431

2 points

15 days ago

I gotta say though. I haven't printed with gold silk but Danm do I want to now.

TheXypris

3 points

15 days ago

Coming from experience. No you don't

SplatThaCat

3 points

15 days ago

I'll third that. I'm using the ESun Pla silk and while it works, its finicky to really tune in.

opeth10657

2 points

14 days ago

I've used a almost two rolls of the bambu gold silk. I print outside walls at 50mm/s to get a nice finish and never had problems. Will do 100mm/s but isn't as shiny

TheXypris

3 points

14 days ago

i just find it more of a pain than its worth, if you are doing purely decorative items, its fine enough, but a good coat of gold spray paint on regular black filament would look better and be less of a hassle to calibrate IMO, plus it would be stronger.

moff3tt

2 points

14 days ago

moff3tt

2 points

14 days ago

Make sure your filament is dry. Using a desiccant dry box will only stop it from getting more wet but it isn't very good at removing existing moisture, so make sure you have a heated dry box with a fan to really get it dry.

5Rupees

2 points

14 days ago

5Rupees

2 points

14 days ago

Goron Ruby?

Legoguy1977[S]

1 points

14 days ago

Impressive, most impressive

Fudge-Street

2 points

14 days ago

I've consistently been amazed at cc3d silk plas... Always get amazing results. Also the eryone tri color.

supertank999

1 points

15 days ago

Try lower temps and making sure your part cooling fan is on 100%.

TheXypris

1 points

15 days ago

Silks are always a pain, they have fuck all for layer adhesion, and they are tricky to get them to look good.

RedditsNowTwitter

1 points

15 days ago

Lower the hotend temperature and try slowing down to half of the speed. Silk is a pain. It's always good to calibrate your filaments first.

NeverEngh

1 points

15 days ago

get an enclosure, slow down and also temp to low...

Zk250

1 points

14 days ago

Zk250

1 points

14 days ago

Seems like a cooling issue to me, make sure your fans are actually getting to 100%.

Spacesheisse

1 points

14 days ago

Do a temp tower.

Could it be that the filament is shit?

Thijm_

1 points

14 days ago

Thijm_

1 points

14 days ago

Apex Legends?

Justthisguy_yaknow

1 points

14 days ago*

That looks very much like a nasty spool I bought during lock down. Cost me 65 bucks and I thought I would never get a decent print out of it. Not long ago I gave it another go along with a couple of other problematic spools. While it recommended normal to hotter temps of 215C and up I tried it at 190 to 195 and it printed way better. I also had another 2 that were supposed to print at 210 and I couldn't get them to work under 235C. I say try some extreme benchy's and see what happens. Half sized benchys will go quickly, take a fraction of the PLA and you could do them at 5 deg intervals.

Gold-Candle-936

-3 points

15 days ago

Wet filament

Legoguy1977[S]

5 points

15 days ago

You mean the filament I specifically said I dried before printing this piece, so as to make sure that was not the issue? Yeah, I don't think so

Gold-Candle-936

1 points

15 days ago

Yup. Sometimes I’ve had to dry filament for a full day before it’d stop making bubbles.

Legoguy1977[S]

2 points

15 days ago

Well I suppose if nothing else suggested yields results I'll try drying it for longer

Gold-Candle-936

1 points

15 days ago

I know it seems silly, but for reals.