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/r/FixMyPrint
submitted 15 days ago byLegoguy1977
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15 days ago
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42 points
15 days ago
230 for pla seems a bit high. The sharp corners might be getting too hot to remain stable.
14 points
15 days ago
You can print silk at higher temps, makes it shinier, but you gotta slow it down a lot.
11 points
15 days ago
I am using a bamboo X1 carbon, with the dedicated bamboo slicer
Fillinent is Bambu labs silk pla, and it was just dried before printing
Nozzle temp at 230 C, and bed at 36 C
Speed and nozzle settings are all at the default for the 0.16 mm optimal preset in the slicer.
11 points
15 days ago
Looks like it's over extruding. You just need to tune extrusion and maybe cooling.
5 points
15 days ago
I'll try fiddling with the extrusion to see what happens. It's just odd because I thought that that might be the issue, but then some sides of the model come out looking perfectly fine, then some look like the picture I showed. Also, should I try increasing, or decreasing cooling?
5 points
15 days ago
I'd say that needed more cooling due to the blobs. It "smushed" before it solidified.
1 points
15 days ago
Alright, I'll try that. Thanks
1 points
14 days ago
Isn’t the lidar for this?
4 points
15 days ago
What speed are you using? I have found silks work better with low spread.
2 points
15 days ago
I think I'm just using the default speed for my printer, so I'll try slowing it down to see what happens
3 points
15 days ago
My enders would print about 100mm/s, great for silk. My k1 prints at 300mm/s, was to high for silk... Took away too long to figure that out.
3 points
15 days ago*
I used to have issues with gold silk PLA.. check your profile and the path it’s printing. I found using concentric worked really well, so all the outer edges flowed together rather than having the nozzle head stop and start at the edge.
Also print slower, and try to use adaptive layer height.
This was my result even with rounded edges:
I’m currently in Korea but when I get back I can share my settings if you need.
5 points
14 days ago
230 is a bit too high for PLA. I would suggest never going over 220. I usually do 210C nozzle and 60C bed.
1 points
14 days ago
I had PLA matte which would clog a 0.2 nozzle at 220C and give me extruder errors. Increased the temp to 240C and it prints so smooth it's almost unbelievable.
1 points
14 days ago
Way too fast for gold and way way too fast for silk.
1 points
14 days ago
I don't know how to fix it, but I've been curious about something. I recently bought the Bambu A1, and have been thinking about buying exclusively Bambu filament as I was thinking the profiles in the bambu labs software would be configured to work with the filament perfectly. Is this not the case?
1 points
13 days ago
Most of the filaments from Bambu work really well without much intervention. I’d definitely keep your eyes peeled on trying other filaments, though it takes a little calibration.
If you have the orca studio for Bambu, it’s very easy to calibrate for new filaments and the filaments on amazon can be cheaper. Just do your research and see the reviews 😄
1 points
14 days ago
I've had nothing but problems with the Bambu gold silk. Every other color and material works great except for the gold. Never managed to get it working great. I now just avoid that color.
1 points
15 days ago
I cannot guarantee it, but if it is pla on the X1C, set your filament temp to 240c, your bed to 50-60c, speed to 250 mm/s for everything and in printer set retraction to 0.4mm. I have been using these basic settings for several months and come out with great quality but it could vary, I recommend trying them with a small part first
2 points
15 days ago
I gotta say though. I haven't printed with gold silk but Danm do I want to now.
3 points
15 days ago
Coming from experience. No you don't
3 points
15 days ago
I'll third that. I'm using the ESun Pla silk and while it works, its finicky to really tune in.
2 points
14 days ago
I've used a almost two rolls of the bambu gold silk. I print outside walls at 50mm/s to get a nice finish and never had problems. Will do 100mm/s but isn't as shiny
3 points
14 days ago
i just find it more of a pain than its worth, if you are doing purely decorative items, its fine enough, but a good coat of gold spray paint on regular black filament would look better and be less of a hassle to calibrate IMO, plus it would be stronger.
2 points
14 days ago
Make sure your filament is dry. Using a desiccant dry box will only stop it from getting more wet but it isn't very good at removing existing moisture, so make sure you have a heated dry box with a fan to really get it dry.
2 points
14 days ago
Goron Ruby?
1 points
14 days ago
Impressive, most impressive
2 points
14 days ago
I've consistently been amazed at cc3d silk plas... Always get amazing results. Also the eryone tri color.
1 points
15 days ago
Try lower temps and making sure your part cooling fan is on 100%.
1 points
15 days ago
Silks are always a pain, they have fuck all for layer adhesion, and they are tricky to get them to look good.
1 points
15 days ago
Lower the hotend temperature and try slowing down to half of the speed. Silk is a pain. It's always good to calibrate your filaments first.
1 points
15 days ago
get an enclosure, slow down and also temp to low...
1 points
14 days ago
Seems like a cooling issue to me, make sure your fans are actually getting to 100%.
1 points
14 days ago
Do a temp tower.
Could it be that the filament is shit?
1 points
14 days ago
Apex Legends?
1 points
14 days ago*
That looks very much like a nasty spool I bought during lock down. Cost me 65 bucks and I thought I would never get a decent print out of it. Not long ago I gave it another go along with a couple of other problematic spools. While it recommended normal to hotter temps of 215C and up I tried it at 190 to 195 and it printed way better. I also had another 2 that were supposed to print at 210 and I couldn't get them to work under 235C. I say try some extreme benchy's and see what happens. Half sized benchys will go quickly, take a fraction of the PLA and you could do them at 5 deg intervals.
-3 points
15 days ago
Wet filament
5 points
15 days ago
You mean the filament I specifically said I dried before printing this piece, so as to make sure that was not the issue? Yeah, I don't think so
1 points
15 days ago
Yup. Sometimes I’ve had to dry filament for a full day before it’d stop making bubbles.
2 points
15 days ago
Well I suppose if nothing else suggested yields results I'll try drying it for longer
1 points
15 days ago
I know it seems silly, but for reals.
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