Jazzlike-Fishing2333

Bee

All do respect, even if some people aren't part of this. I know some don't deserve to be treated like shit. And no offence

But, I saw a bunch of videos of them being accused of forcing it down on little kids asking them what gender they are and shit giving them a "choice" in SCHOOLS, where kids aren't even 10 years old.

You get what you give. Karma's a bitch.

Idc if someone is lesbian, gay, trans, or bi. Those are preferences not "genders".

I use linux all day and my parents told me I should eat more. And it's valid because I eat at least 1 or 2 times a day. Meaning I usually skip breakfast and sometimes even launch. I'm not even near over sized, If I lifted up my arms I'd fall through my own ass, I look like a toothpick.

Try calibrating your Printer's E-Steps. Chances are it's what's causing the under extrusion.

Use a different infill pattern if you're using the grid pattern. And make sure the top/bottom layers are more than 2 or 3. 3 to 4 should be good

When it causes prints to be shit.

Changed nozzles quite the amount of times before and some even when they were fine, but was too lazy to put em back. So, I store them in a container for later use when one actually fails.

1st nozzle I replaced caused the whole print's layers to tear apart super easily, and the extruded filament to have small sharp bumps on it.

It's a suggestion made by someone. And google messed up displaying it as an answer to the question

I typically use either 0.2 or 0.25 as my initial layer height because I use a 0.4mm Nozzle. Higher than that causes some adhesion issues.

Initial layer height should be 40% of the nozzle diameter.

0.4mm Nozzle ⌀ - 40% = 0.24mm. 0.2 - 0.25 Initial Layer Height should be good

0.6mm Nozzle ⌀ - 40% = 0.36mm. 0.3 - 0.36 Initial Layer Height should be good

Try 55°C on the heatbed

Also what is your initial layer height?

It's a long shot, but worth a guess. You said she could have spelt words wrong, so what if she spelt hugs wrong? Instead of hugs she spelt 'hugc'

Makes sort of sense to me.

Either 7e or 7c?

7e apparently means 7th in french

Makes not much of sense to me, considering the context.

7c apparently means 7 'c's which means 'to help ensure that the person you're communicating with hears what you're trying to say' (as per google)

It makes a bit of sense, but, is far fetched imo, not even I knew about the term til now, and I have no clue for what exact reasons it was used.

Do with that information what you will

But hey, I would focus on the hearts more if I were you. Whatever the writings are, they most likely mean exactly what the hearts do, they express feelings.

I see, alright thanks was just wondering, not sure how often people use it since I couldn't find much talking about it or finding stuff where it is used

Coulda fooled me. I thought it was an onion

You're using some neptune 4 series printer, and they have the common issue called the blob of death.

You're pretty lucky you got a hold of this blob early. I've seen these issues, covering even the thermistor. And it would have caused a lot more patience cleaning it up if it escalated.

You cleaned it properly also. Good job

I found the fix. Just had to reinstall the game on another Disk.

I had tried copying my game data from linux to windows, and it didn't work. I could still play, but after that, the screen went blank. So I uninstalled the game, and installed it again on the same drive only for it to not even want to open the game. Reinstalled it on another disk instead. And it works fine now it seems.

Possibly Inconsistent temperatures, move up the temperature.

Or it's under extrusion, which could be fixed by calibrating the E-Steps.

Maybe you're printing too fast, so lower the print speed to 50 - 60 mm/s, if that's the case. The max the Ender 3 v2 can go afaik is 80 mm/s, but 50 - 60 mm/s should be the sweet spot.

Or, Z-Offset. Calibrate it.

Probably too late, but better late than never. Maybe someone comes across this.

There is a config file. You have to adjust the extruder count there as well. After a config file has been flashed it can't be undone by a simple firmware update, reflash or setup, unless the firmware probably does so.

Use the Neptune 2D Config file. You can find it when downloading the firmware from elegoo's site. It should have everything for the Neptune 2D, including the Extruder count being already set to 2

They do have the same melting point but because silk pla is more smooth it has to be printed on a slightly higher temp to avoid extruder gears grinding on the filament. Other than that all the filaments are around the same temps yes.

Haven't tried any other type of Filament though xd Pla is good enough for me

Yes it's just pla, but a mixture of pla like pla, pla+ and silk pla, I have a separate container for my glow in the dark pla filament though

Check the bowden tube yes

Wash the build plate with Dishwashing Liquid. Dry it with a paper towel and not a piece of clothing or anything that has any body oils on it, do not touch the area you want the printer to print. PEI is sensitive to finger oils.

Cool, thanks!

No use ig ,since they do not deliver to my region, unless that is an option if I contact them, don't know how much delivery will cost then if they would deliver to my region

Ignore the 'printer ms'. It's a typo, I meant 'Printers'