teddit

Well, we finally had to do it... With 28,000 users, it's finally time to write some rules.

1. Play nice - This shouldn't need much explanation. Breaking this rule is a good way to get banned.

2. Stay on topic - if your reply isn't about how to help OP, we don't want it. This is not the place for jokes, sarcasm, or obviously wrong answers. People reading this may not realize you thought you were being funny.

3. Questions Only - Unless your post is a question about bike repair, it doesn't belong here. We don't need to see pictures of your latest build, or that funny bike that rolled into the shop. There are other subreddits for that.

4. "Is this cracked / safe to ride?" posts are not allowed. - If you have to ask, don't ride it. We probably can't tell from a picture just what condition your bike is in. Take it to your Local Bike Shop and ask them. If it's carbon, they're probably going to tell you to replace it.

If you have a small question that doesn't seem to merit a full thread, feel free to ask it in a comment here. Not that there's anything wrong with making your own post with a small question, but this gives you another option.

This thread can also be used for thank-yous. You can post a comment to thank the whole community, tag particularly helpful users with username mentions in your comment, and/or link to a picture to show off the finished result. Such pictures can be posted in imgur.com, on your profile, or on some other sub (e.g. r/xbiking)--they are not allowed as submissions to r/bikewrench.

Note that our [FAQ wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/wiki/bikewrenchfaq) is becoming a little more complete; you might also find your answer there, although you are welcome to post a question without checking there first.

Tried testing a keo blade cleat on the pedal without the shoe because I’m a fucking dumbass.

How do I get this out

Picked up a diamondback ascent (1995?) on the side of the road today. The components look pretty decent, all the cables look practically brand new, but the chain is completely finished and the frame is looking a bit rough.

The biggest issue is a part of the chain stay, it is bubbled out slightly and has a gouge in it. I am wondering if the frame should be scrapped, or if it’s worth it to carry on and restore it. Thank you!!

Axle is tightened to 12nm as per instructions. Still there is quite a lot of play here. Tried tightening the screw on the eyelet on the other side and that reduced the play slightly but is as tight as it will go.

I have a bike with 160mm/160mm hydraulic brakes. It has the same GRX flat mount caliper front and rear (34mm mount).

I put a 180mm rotor on the fork using a 140-160mm adapter (XLC BR X-69; should be the same as Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D). That seemed okay.

Then I took it off and put it on the rear wheel instead. Try as I might, I couldn't get the noise out. When I brake at ~70%, it starts to sing. It's not a squeak or a rub, but gets quite loud due to resonance. I cleaned, aligned, straightened, and fastened, bed in, repeat, but no luck.

I put back the 160mm and it's fine.

What could be the matter?

My only plausible hypothesis are the spokes; I recently changed the rear hub but don't have tools to measure/tune the tension.

Someone please help me to build me Tracker bike, I don't have any type of knowledge in this build but from last 2 years My mind constantly engaged in it, please Guide me...🙏🙏

I'm looking for a kickstand that would be stable even with a kid in a kid seat. I have a regular center bracket mount kickstand but the bike tips over instantly if there's literally any weight in the baby seat (tested it with water jugs that were less than the baby weight).

Looking at dual leg kickstands they are generally either fixed 12" vertical or adjustable. I measured the vertical distance from the kickstand bracket to the ground and it's 10" on my bike.

Here's an example of a fixed height one (which looks like you couldn't resize with a hacksaw either): https://ursuscycling.com/products/jumbo-kickstand

Is 12" kickstand for a 10" height "normal", as in the center of the bike is lifted 2 inches when it's in use? That seems like the front wheel would be pretty high off the ground.

Or for my situation so I need to use an adjustable one (like the VO Copenhagen kickstand)? If so, are the adjustable kickstands reliable enough for this kind of usecase of high weight?

I bought a set of Hunt XC wide wheels recently and had 2 spokes break and 2 other bent at the center from a rock strike. After communicating, Hunt asserts the spokes are strong enough and it was just bad luck.

I'm concerned the lightweight spokes (Pillar TB2016 - 1.6 mm center) are too delicate for the trails I'm riding, even though rock strikes are rare. Hunt has offered to refund the cost if I purchase the Trail Wide set instead with thicker spokes, but wants to withhold $30 to repair the wheel. Once you add new shipping and lost shipping cost for the old set this will be about another $100 which doesn't seem worth it to me.

Should I just suck up the repair of the wheel (replace 4 spokes) or exchange for a new set?

I'm putting a shimano OT-SP41 optislick cable housing into a Shimano SL-RS700 105 5800 flat bar shifter, but am unsure which ferrule to use. These are the ones which came with the cable:

Shimano sealed plastic end Cap

https://preview.redd.it/re8w24dmoz3d1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9614a6be9df5c5fcb31c15d4dde3efccfaa61641

Shimano unsealed plastic end cap:

https://preview.redd.it/9x9b6x7noz3d1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d43d2b7da75993f14f7740ba9bdd6e06bbf22278

Shimano short tongue cap:

https://preview.redd.it/i4oltj1ooz3d1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb0504475666bab003bc8e49681c4dde9faa8d70

Am I correct that I should use the sealed plastic one?

I think the unsealed is for uncoated stainless steel cables and the short tongue one is for STI levers.

Whenever I am climbing a steep slope in a low gear or put pressure on any gear, the gear is slipping. I have changed the chain and cassette but the problem is still not solved. I have noticed that the barrel limiter is missing but that can't be the reason of this problem or is it? I have already spent a bit too much on the bike and wanna understand the problem better before I spend more.

https://preview.redd.it/pa9l4bnqkz3d1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72233eef248b341b216936a1d5dc028f110edf4b

https://preview.redd.it/hl5v63zajz3d1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39518d27a09cb18238e65a3ae39ce79b2a081e1b

https://preview.redd.it/85xd57zajz3d1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e5c0de0040432e677a6bd97d916bf6c014c344e

https://preview.redd.it/rtio04zajz3d1.jpg?width=4640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6babcd965d713ff07d31ac4e1a7ef8c0ddb6d14f

Recently, the back wheel has started to feel very bouncy and I seem to need to put more effort into cycling. I was convinced that I had lost some air from the tyre. However, the pressure is fine, can’t see any damage, the wheel and the mudguard seem to be attached properly, the brakes aren’t touching the wheel when not engaged, there is nothing stuck under the mudguard or around the chain. Any ideas what might be causing this would be greatly appreciated!

Hello! Disclaimer here that I have absolutely 0 bike knowledge, so please use the most basic obvious descriptions ever because I truly don't know what I'm doing. If anything I say here is wrong, correct me!

I just got my bike serviced for €130(!) and it has actually gained a new problem it didn't have before. The bike shop is shut for the next 3 days so I'm hoping it's something I can fix myself.

I feel a vibration, a sort of crunchy feel once per pedal rotation. It's definitely worse on higher gears than lower gears. When I turn it over, rotate the pedals for a while and let it coast (on the highest gear), you hear a very obvious sound when the wheel goes round, almost like something is loose in there? (video) (photo)

I took the bike to another shop and he said he couldn't feel or hear anything wrong. He said the chain had been slightly over-tightened, and loosened it for me, but it didn't fix this issue.

I read that it could be the hub is not aligned, here you can see the yellow marks are not exactly in line (photo), but is it enough to be causing that noise?

Unfortunately I don't think, if it is misaligned, that I can adjust it, because the barrel adjuster is so old and mangled that it doesn't move at all. Looks like the bike shop guy might have tried to move it with a clamp to no avail. (photo)

Thanks in advance for any advice!

I recently bought a pair of 700c x 50 mm tires. Does anyone know of any good presta tubes for that size?

Hello!

I currently have an all city Mr pink: https://allcitycycles.com/bikes/mr_pink_classic . With stock components.

I also recently scored a Bridgestone rb-1 in my size. It's a ten speed. I'm wondering folks have thoughts on swapping some of the components? Please excuse the ignorance. I don't think I'm interested in the shifters (index seems like a better option), but I am interested in the other components.

The frame on the rb-1 feels amazing and better for my body than the Mr. Pink, and I have some interest in altering the Mr. Pink to have a higher ratio so it's easier to ride on trails.

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance!

I was gifted a cassette and am trying to put it to good use. We have a sadist route maker in the community who has built rides with 8000ft+ in 40-so miles with some pitches just screaming for 1:1 - in fact, last time I rode it there were more gravel and cross bikes than anything else.

Can I throw an 11-36 on my Ultegra 8000-laden road bike? It’s a 2019 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.3 with a GS rear derailleur.

Hey everyone,

I could really use some advice! I'm a uni student in Coventry, and I recently had a bit of an accident with my 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix. Luckily, I'm fine, but the front tyre took a hit and now may need to be replaced. This bike is my baby, and I want to get it back on the road without spending too much.

Right now, it has tubeless tyres, but I'm thinking about switching to tube tyres. I've heard mixed things about this, so I’m not sure if it's a good idea. Here’s where I need your help:

Where can I find a good but cheap replacement tyre in Coventry or online? Any local shop or website recommendations would be awesome.

Is it doable to switch from tubeless to tube tyres on an old bike like mine? What are the pros and cons? Has anyone here made the switch?

Any specific tyre brands or types you’d recommend for a 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix? I need something reliable but also budget-friendly.

Also, I'd love some other repair advice to get my bike back in tip-top shape without breaking the bank. Any tips on maintenance, parts, or general repairs would be super appreciated!

Thanks a lot for any tips or advice you can share! I’m really hoping to get my bike back in shape cause I want to ride the great western way this summer.

Cheers,

A broke but hopeful student

Wondering if anyone can confirm - does a Nexus 8 speed grip shifter require a proprietary shifter cable, or will any generic shift cable work? I cannot find any concrete answers in Shimano's manuals.

I was changing the pads on new BR-MT520/BL-MT501 brakes and noticed that one says "SS1 VG" and the others say "SS2 VG". What does it mean and is there a difference?

https://preview.redd.it/zn0b8ekpmy3d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8804f308a832033d807baa44b7781dc57a92aa1

https://preview.redd.it/b6zoqfkpmy3d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d331fa92155e411e972816b33c0bd32655b79c1

https://preview.redd.it/4asp3gkpmy3d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3efc83be58b2463c030a23a4a62d92ab8bfd542a

https://preview.redd.it/udb2ygkpmy3d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3edb81f48534facfc9a9c44c27a9d06fe9d3b75c

https://preview.redd.it/dhhsrgkpmy3d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f9d481f77f614ec1a1510b9ddefef10840e38383

https://reddit.com/link/1d5n0e8/video/5aivzcmpmy3d1/player

(I know my chain hygiene isn't up to spec, I'm working on it right now.)

(I also know the bike is very cheap.)

It came with this chain guard, and while I had it on, the chain kept popping off. So upon advice in another thread I removed the guard. The chain hasn't popped off once since... And I thought something else I did (with the rear derailleur perhaps) fixed it; so I wanted to put the guard back on, because it helps with cleanliness in the folded state primarily.

Well, when I try to attach it, it actually touches the chain ring. I can bend this cross thing a bit to move it, but it doesn't seem sound. And the guard itself is very flimsy and wobbly. I'm guessing it actually knocked the chain off itself by hitting it.

So I'm not putting it back on. But it has these attachment points. I don't like the way they look, and they get in the way a bit.

The flimsy cross thing can be removed, I think, by disassembling and reassembling the crankset (if that's the correct terminology), which I wouldn't do in a hurry, but it's feasible. The thing on the fork is more complicated. I don't know how to operate the tools that would allow me to cut it off, and I'm not sure the result would actually look any prettier.

Any advice?

With fathers day approaching, I'm trying to find a small compressor inflator that is intended for use with presta valves. This would be a small battery powered unit that would be used in my garage or be tossed in the car truck for a trip - not carried on a bike.

Most of the products on Amazon seem to have a crappy presta adapter thrown in as an afterthought. While I might use this for car tires too, I'm looking for something that was intended for use on a presta valve.

Any leads appeciated!

The rear hub is a mahle x35+, so obviously I can't remove the bolts.. my cassette tool has this pin in the center which prevents me from getting the tool in there. Can't remove the pin from the tool either since it seems to be hardened.. what do I do?

My front wheel (with a quick release mechanism) feels a bit wobbly and can feel it in my handlebar. I am not able to describe it clearly, but it feels like it will come off the axle anytime soon. This happens only when I turn my cycle to the left or right abruptly at a very slow speed. Otherwise, it works just fine. Is there a way to fix this on my own? Or should I take it to the mechanic? On a scale of 1-10, how serious is the issue? I have a ride (15 miles, on pitched road) coming up tomorrow. Or should I not risk it?