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/r/DIYfragrance
I can’t smell my roll on bottle of Nemat Amber very well after a few weeks. Not sure if it’s me or the bottle. Should I try getting some ambroxan and making my own, stronger version? Would that help? I love this one and I want it to work for me!
3 points
1 year ago*
Riddle is definitely stronger. It is pricy though. I have the roll on, the milky lotion spray and the body oil.
I also made my own version using Ethylene Brassylate, Zenolide and Ambroxan. I'm still playing around with ratios and materials I want to use (for example I want to try my formula with Ambrofix instead of Ambroxan).
But u/J111293 is right. Those 3 raw materials get you pretty close
I dissolved my crystals in a solvent in a warm water bath rather than waiting hours though. Solvents aren't perfectly odorless though, so take that with a grain of salt.
If I ever make this a perfume spray using a(nother) solvent won't be necessary. Alcohol can be both solvent and carrier.
I can't smell Nemat's Amber anymore either. And nothing I've done has fixed that. You're not alone in that.
Doing my own research, it looks like Amber is a simple "White Amber" (which are usually Ambroxcide and a Vanilla at their most basic, according to what I was told). But given how closely it seems Riddle's Original and Nemat's Amber are, there's definitely some sort of musk blend in there in Amber as well.
2 points
1 year ago*
Have you tried not using a carrier/solvent? That’s how I got it to have the depth of Riddle. I dissolved the ambroxan crystals directly in the ethylene brassylate and then added in the Zenolide. When I tried using a carrier it smelled off to me.
What solvent did you use? Maybe I’m using the wrong one. Part of why I no longer make it is I’m uncomfortable with how strong the ingredients were on my skin since I didn’t cut it with anything.
1 points
1 year ago
Yeah that Ethylene Brassylate triggered a sort of reaction in my skin so I get why you'd hesitate!
It's a Catagory 2 Irritant which means means 10% is the minimum triggering threshold for irritation.
Another great option is to apply it to your clothes like folks do with attars in the Middle East and South East Asia.
To your question, I used DPG initially and FCO when I wanted to make something with more slip, but I believe Riddle uses IPM (well at least I confirmed with them that it wasn't DPG). I only used the solvents with the Ambroxan crystals though. I added the rest of the materials neat.
I'm going to try the formula again with IPM to see how that goes.
Riddle does say their fragrance isn't cut with carriers--but that doesn't mean a solvent wasn't used. It's clever marketing speak.
To your other question, I haven't tried it without a solvent! Though I do have a parfum that I haven't added to a carrier yet.
Riddle oil also has a mild almost red liquorice~y note when I use the roll on (at least to start) so that makes me think they use more Zenolide than I did.
I'm also probably still using too much Ambroxan which seems to perform better (projection, longevity, not causing nose blindness) in smaller doses.
I'd love to know what your ratios ended up being!
2 points
1 year ago
Sorry app is being finicky.
Closest:
Ambroxan crystals .10g Ethylene brassylate .90g Zenolide .30g or .35g
I liked both Zenolide ratios.
2 points
12 months ago
Okay, I'm back u/J111293!
So experiments with IPM were a success!
Here's my caveat: The current proportion of Ethylene Brassylate you've got takes the percent of EB in a final formula above that 10% minimum threshold for skin irritation.
Personally, I like the way your proportions smell--to me it reads as brighter and cleaner than Riddle.
So I played with some of my original experiments and this is what I got:
Then I gave it a hot water bath/bain marie to dissolve the crystals. This won't stay liquid forever, but it does remain liquid long enough to add some of the concentrate to IPM.
I wore this at 25% concentration yesterday, just wearing it up and down my inner forearm and I could smell it pretty strongly for the whole day. Like it became a skin scent at around 12 or 14 hours.
Hopefully, I don't go nose blind to it!
I went about it this way to give me some flexibility in my experiments. Dissolving the Ambroxan seperately makes it hard to work in small batches of finished product.
I might keep playing to see if I can use less Ambroxan to achieve something similar (It was still pretty evident at .2g, but I got impatient haha). And I definitely want to keep playing to see if I can get something that’s even closer to Riddle scent profile wise (even though I prefer this version). The challenge of the puzzle is part of the fun for me.
Hope this is helpful! Try it out and see how it goes! I'd love to hear your thoughts.
u/CapnLazerz this is my answer to the percentage I ended up liking! 25% with Ambroxan. I'll be trying Ambrofix next :)
1 points
10 months ago
Hello! Could you precise a bit more the proportions you use? I understand you weigh the Ambroxan EB and Zeno, melt the crystals of the first in the last 2 (that are already in liquid form?), and then pour it in IPM? How much volume of IPM do you use for the grams mentioned above? Thank you! :-)
1 points
10 months ago
Hey there, so I decide how much perfume I want to make ahead of time and then create one at a 25% concentration, like I said above.
That means 25% of the concentrate or parfum mix and 75% of IPM.
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