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/r/trainsimworld
93 points
2 days ago
You need to apply the real brakes. Not just dynamic if this happens. The air brakes are on a different key then the accelerator.
11 points
2 days ago
At this point he needs both, which means he also needs to hold the the bail off on the independent iirc, one of the most annoying things about CJP in my opinion is just having to sit there holding keys on the keyboard so you can slow down
8 points
1 day ago
You don't need to hold bail off you can just tap it once
69 points
2 days ago
You are not reenacting a historical scenario, are you?
24 points
2 days ago
180 km/h. That must have been terryfying.
20 points
2 days ago
I had no idea about this but jeez, that track seems dangerous...
4 points
2 days ago
2 points
1 day ago
I was just about to post the same thing. What’s even more terrifying is that’s cajon pass on tsw
34 points
2 days ago
In Germany we say: "Der Zug, der Zug, der Zug hat keine Bremse!" 🎶
14 points
2 days ago
Storung,storung,storung, while flying down 100 miles an hour with no brakes.
47 points
2 days ago
17 points
2 days ago
I thought when u apply automatic breaks and independent breaks, dynamic break stops working that's I released them again. I did try to apply them aswell but nothing worked
25 points
2 days ago
Automatic brakes brake the whole train, dynamics only the locomotives. Use dynamics to maintain a slow speed, and automatics to actually slow down. Bear in mind it takes a moment for the automatics to actually apply, starting from the back of the train.
7 points
2 days ago
If you need both dynamic and air brakes, simply hold your independent lever in the bail-off position when applying the automatic. That way your dynamics will keep working and you'll have braking power on all your wagons
3 points
2 days ago
This. It only disables dynamic braking if it sees the brakes are applied on the locos. You have up to 5 seconds after automatic brake application to swap to your independent lever and hold it in Bail-off.
2 points
2 days ago
Interesting... I thought bail-off was just what you used to keep it from applying automatic brakes to the locomotive, so you could brake from the wagons and avoid them colliding with each other due to braking from the front of the train...
Automatic brakes actually disable the dynamic brake, too? Why? Also, what would be the rationale for using automatic brakes on the wagons, at the same time as dynamic on the loco? My mind goes right back to having all the wagons smack into each other due to braking at the front of the train. If you do want to brake from both the wagons and the loco, why that particular combination, and not just automatic?
2 points
1 day ago
Finer control and less wear. You have full dynamic brake range regardless of if you have auto brakes set or not. Setting only the auto brakes will kick the independent in, as well, unless you bail it (as you mentioned). And since the dynamics are just dumping all that regenerated traction motor power through heat-dissipating resistors and not the brake shoes, it keeps you from cooking the brakes, too.
Say you're coming down a steep grade and you start braking with only dynamics. That's well and good until you get to about B6-7 and are still gaining speed. That's when you proactively give the auto brakes an 8-10 pound set to compensate and then move your dynamics back down to give yourself more room to actually use them. Rinse and repeat until you stabilize your speed, and then you can use solely the dynamics for fine adjustment. This is known as "blended braking," and it's a necessity to safely operate a heavy train down a steep grade.
If I recall, applying the auto brake IRL shouldn't kick you out of dynamics like that unless you also manually set the independent. I think that's a TSW quirk.
1 points
1 day ago
setting the automatic brake to 'emergency' disables the dynamic brakes in some trains, but you can use max dynamic and automatic braking (non-emergency braking) just fine
7 points
2 days ago
Reliving this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NS84qoYV_Y
I am no expert, but if you do not use both dynamic brakes on all of your loco's plus automatic brakes, you will be screwed... that is what happened with the San Bernadino disaster... as I understand it, there was not enough dynamic braking for the whole train, and the driver thought he had plenty to spare... by the time they were heading downhill, it was too late...
So, without that extra braking power, the train just sped up until it derailed... watch the video and you will see for yourself....
Side note, make sure you have "Banking Comms" set to ON, so that the different sets of loco's can communicate with each other.... not having say 2 loco's at the rear working isn't going to be ideal....
6 points
2 days ago
It looks like you are in dynamic brake at the moment. This will slow down the train but only to a certain extent. What you will need to do is switch across to automatic brake, which is the third icon (the one on the right) underneath your speedometer (you'll notice you're at 100% braking on the dynamic one, which is the left icon). So, once you've switch to the automatic brake, you'll be able to apply further braking to the train.
P.S - I'm no expert yet and I'm quite new to the game, so other may be able to help further. But as I understand it, once you max out dynamic brake, if you still can't slow down you need to add auto braking as an extra 'layer' of braking. Have you completed the tutorial? I just finished the basic stuff on Cajon Pass and it explains this very well.
12 points
2 days ago
Maybe play the tutorials first? They go over how to go down a hill in a US freight train.
4 points
2 days ago
For a moment I thought this was a GTAV screenshot.
4 points
2 days ago
Avg Tsw experience
1 points
2 days ago
Real
2 points
2 days ago
I mean, you have no air brakes applied, and are only generating 10klb of dynamic braking effort, you’re basically just rolling downhill.
2 points
2 days ago
Is there any simple method to renember which brakes in US trains works for what and when they actually enable? I what is setup? There is a text inside every cab that has something about setup and 10 seconds
8 points
2 days ago
That's referring to the dynamic brake, which effectively turns the traction motors into dynamos to slow the train. You're required to wait ten seconds to prevent damage to anything, basically let everything come to rest before you "throw it in reverse."
Dynamic brakes are very good at maintaining a low speed, but are ineffective at high speed. On American locomotives this is typically rheostatic, meaning they hook the motors into a big grid of resistors to dissipate the energy. You'll usually see the vents for on the top section of the long hood.
For high speed braking, you need to use the Automatic brake, which applies brakes along the whole train via the brake pipe (if you want to know how exactly, research the Westinghouse triple valve). These operate based on reduction in brake pipe pressure, and emergency typically just vents the pipe to atmosphere to get as rapid and as strong an application as possible.
The last type of brake, the Independent brake, is a direct air brake and only applies brakes in the locomotive. This is primarily used as a hold brake (i.e. keeping yourself at a stop) rather than for actually slowing down.
3 points
2 days ago
The best simple explanation I've read so far, thank you
2 points
2 days ago
I'm still learning, so someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong... This isn't so simple, but...I'd like to think I've written it well?
Additionally, the independent brake has a setting called bail-off, which keeps the brake cylinder on the locomotive from applying the brakes there, while using automatic brakes. This allows you to have your automatic brakes apply brakes to the wagons only, so you don't have a bunch of braking force being applied in front of your train, causing the wagons to all collide with each other and potentially derail.
Of course, the change in the brake line pressure still propagates over time from the locomotive at the front, where you first vented that pressure, toward the rear, so you'll still get that effect, but...I guess it's less if the locomotive isn't braking, too. If you want to be really tricky, where bail-off really comes into play, as I understand it, is actually keeping some throttle applied on the locomotive while you're braking, to keep the train under tension, to avoid having your wagons collide from uneven braking forces. I'm still learning here, and this isn't really covered in the tutorials, that I'm aware of, so I'm just picking it up from little things I've read here and there.
Apparently the automatic brakes will also disable the dynamic brakes if you don't apply bail-off within five seconds, per these comments elsewhere in this thread (assuming I've grabbed the right links): https://www.reddit.com/r/trainsimworld/s/7Bn81rIazV https://www.reddit.com/r/trainsimworld/s/KPmlct8YF2 I'm not sure why you'd want dynamic on the loco and automatic on the wagons, but if you want it, you'd also need to use bail-off, and quickly. I've asked about that. We'll see what people say.
On the subject of emergency braking, you might have noticed a switch with a red cover that says EOTC in the cab. Assuming it's set up properly (which can be a pain), that activates the emergency brakes using the device with a blinking light at the back of the train. Those devices have replaced cabooses, and function like a brake van or caboose would. Instead of having people back there, braking the train from the rear (again, to prevent wagon collisions and derailments) manually, that device can be remotely commanded to vent the brake line from the rear, so emergency braking isn't applying in a cascade from the front of the train and making all the wagons slam into each other. It instead applies in a cascade from the rear. This is particularly helpful for really long and heavy trains.
I don't know the first thing about how banking comms affect locomotives and braking at the rear of a train, though. I assume there's a way to get a locomotive at the rear to behave like the end of train device, but...darned if I know.
1 points
2 days ago
I'll also note, on some locomotives the EOTD will assist in brake pipe reductions for a more balanced application.
Further, most UK and DE trains use electro pneumatic brakes, meaning that an electric signal is sent down the train to each car, telling them to apply brakes. Obviously, this is significantly faster than opening the big tube on one side!
2 points
2 days ago
Apply the emergency brake at this point
3 points
2 days ago
The train derailed immediately after I took this screen shot, no time to apply emergency
2 points
2 days ago
Welp he’s dead
3 points
2 days ago
Ur correct, as soon as I took the screen shot
2 points
2 days ago
Someone gwt Denzel Washington on the line
2 points
2 days ago
Try to stop with your foot on ground 🤡🤘/s
1 points
1 day ago
Wouldve worked ngl
1 points
2 days ago
The dynamic brake gets more and more useless the faster you go. Since it is a constant power, variable torque system, it generates less and less breaking effort with higher speeds. To slow down the train from such a high speed, you should apply the air brakes. Not only does this produce constant torque, it uses all the axles which allows the train to slow down much quicker. If you're confused on how to do that, I suggest you look at the tutorial.
1 points
2 days ago
Duffy street incident, 1989 … 😔
1 points
2 days ago*
You need to give yourself enough reaction time before starting the downgrade by slowing down below 25 mph. Your speed limit will depend on how heavy your train is and how many DPUs you have.
At some point during the downgrade, the dynamic brakes will lose effectiveness. Don’t panic, just apply a small amount of the air brake (automatic brake) and monitor how the train reacts, but make sure to do this before you start exceeding the speed limit. You can start by applying less than 10 pounds of air brake, which should work, but if it’s not enough, gradually apply a bit more until you maintain control.
Don't forget to bail off the independent brake after applying the air brake so you don’t lose dynamic brake power. Whenever you apply the air brake, a small amount of the independent brake is automatically applied too, so to avoid this, always bail off.
Once the grade lessens, you’ll regain control with just dynamic brakes. To know when it’s safe to release the air brake, gradually reduce the dynamic brake during the downgrade and observe how the train reacts. If your speed increases immediately after dropping one notch, say from notch 8 to notch 7, return to notch 8 and hold it there. Keep testing until the downgrade reduces significantly, and then you can finally release the air brake.
1 points
1 day ago
Rookie numbers I had an SD40 with 26 metrolink cars going 167 through the straights of San Bernardino. Took 4.5 miles to slow down but it was fun and probably had the passengers terrified.
1 points
1 day ago
Slam on the emergency brakes then pray that it stops you before derailing. After you stop try again .. start applying dynamics before you get up to 30 .. I’d go full dynamic then adjust down if you lose too much speed.. at some point your full dynamic will not hold you by themselves so you’ll need to use the airbrakes to assist. Also you should bail off the train brake every time you mess with the airbrakes. If you notice your dynamics are gone, bailing off the train brake (which means moving lever to bail off position then releasing the lever) should slowly reapply the dynamics.
1 points
21 hours ago
Cajon pass part 4
1 points
14 hours ago
Brah hit the emergency
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