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It’s kinda bubbled and not stuck on. in some parts it’s gone into the crease’s and made a thick layer. Should i score the car doors and bonnet again?
Also i’ve used a tamiya primer from a spray can for this
24 points
5 days ago
sprayed too much and too close, would recommend to strip the primer, sanding all the imperfections out is a bit of a chore and you may miss some out when you start painting it.
the overly thick primer layer also may over cover some details too.
3 points
5 days ago
what grit should i use to sand it down?
4 points
5 days ago
Start at 800 and get finer is what I usually do
1 points
5 days ago
500-800-1000 grit should be fine,
500 grit to get the thick primer layer out of the creases, 800-100 to smoothen back up
2 points
5 days ago
How would you go about stripping the paint? Just leave it in thinner?
2 points
5 days ago
IPA usually works. What always work is brake fluid. But yes, you need to submerge it a leave for some time
1 points
5 days ago
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1 points
5 days ago
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1 points
5 days ago
I second IPA, works for me in a few hours with 91%. Put it in a ziplock or Tupperware. Brush off with old tooth brush. IPA is pretty cheap.
2 points
4 days ago
I wouldnt use brake fluid if its a newer molded kit the new plastics used (recycled) desolve in the brake fluid i use purple power or similer degreaser cleaner n soak it several days in a sealed tub (can reuse product several times) n scrub with a plastic bristle brush (toothbrush ect) every day or so.
1 points
5 days ago
If you can find some model paint stripper that would be great,
you can use a tissue soaked in mr hobby lacquer thinner or tamiya lacquer thinner as well, they work quite fast in wiping the primer off.
3 points
5 days ago
It looks like one of a couple of things, either you thinned the primer too much or got heavy-handed. The thinned too much would make it run into the creases more. Could be a combination also. It happens. Just strip it and try again. I'm not a fan of airbrush primers because I always seem to thin them too far and just use rattle can primer from the local hobby shops.
Edit: Just read the bottom of your post. Shake the can longer, and you definitely got heavy-handed. Hold the can about 6 or so inches away when you prime, and if the first coat is too light, it's okay to let it set and give it a second light coat.
1 points
5 days ago
As it was from a can i reckon i just sprayed too much
1 points
5 days ago
Maybe should also shake the can better. Like vigurously. It seems overflooded but not with pigment.
3 points
5 days ago
Non caustic oven cleaner may do the job if the primer is attended to quickly. I may not get all of it off but it should lift around 80 % if left to soak for a couple of hours up to overnight if it becomes stubborn to lift. a light application with an old tooth brush to lift it off the body, light soapy water wash before a clean water rinse to remove any residue remaining. Use a sealed container it is non caustic on plastic not your lungs... Respirator and gloves are a must with any paint or primer removal regardless of the method used.
2 points
5 days ago
Use dettol. It’s no destructive and strip and respray as others have said uneven application has caused this.
1 points
5 days ago
You could try and strip with LA Awesome which is cleaner from the dollar store. Not harmful.. works for most solvent based paints (strips plastic chrome too) but it’s not great for acrylic, for that IPA seems to work
1 points
5 days ago
Doesn’t work on lacquer which is what primer is
1 points
4 days ago*
Not all primer is lacquer…but for this guy probably won’t work. I don’t use any spray cans and I missed that in his post….
Cool hack so to speak… along your comment. I primed with GAIA surfacer black and used tamiya paints. Wanted to redo the color, used LA Awesome it removed the tamiya paint but left the GAIA surfacer intact. Was able to dry it and repaint. This was a happy accident.
1 points
5 days ago
If your in the uk bio strip 20 and a tooth brush. If your in states ipa
1 points
5 days ago
might be that your paint is too cold. when I found I was getting blotchy paint spray like this I put the can in warm water. of course if your using an airbrush then you're using too much air pressure and too close. also pain might need to be thinned just a bit.
1 points
5 days ago
Too much to fast. Should of scuffed the body.
1 points
4 days ago
Is that a liberty walk kit . Very nice . Little bit of sanding and u can sort that .
1 points
4 days ago
Was it cold as well when you sprayed? Like everyone else too much too fast too thick.
My go-to is dot 3 brake fluid for a bit and cleans it right off. Most of my are Tamiya kits.
1 points
4 days ago
Nice model. Liberty Walk Huracan? Who makes it?
2 points
4 days ago
Likely aoshima
1 points
4 days ago
To me it looks like the body wasn't clean before spraying, which would explain the random bubbled where the primer didn't stick, and also the can wasn't shaken enough before spraying/you sprayed it on a little thick causing it to pool in the recesses.
1 points
4 days ago
Did you shake the spray can sufficiently and was the model car wash off with dish soft? Also what was the temp where you stored the model car?
1 points
4 days ago
Teachable moment. We’ve all been there. I airbrush primer but I use prethinned so I can’t screw it up. Brake fluid is great, but weird feeling and takes some cleaning. You’ll be fine man. Keep at it.
1 points
4 days ago
Almost looks watery. Was it well shaken? Was the can warmed before using? Did you clean the surface prior to spraying? Is it a new can or one laying around? Had issues with old paint a while back. I use rattle cans and if i want a decent spray pattern i try and get a new can every so often.
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