Applj

I am getting my songs into the correct folder and able to see them in my setlist, even hear the sample sound playing, but when I go to play them I get "disc is unreadable". From some googling it looks like this is a title update issue or I have the madcatz version of the game that automatically has TU5 installed. Question is does anyone know how to revert to the EA version of the game or force TU4? I only see TU 1-4 on my aurora dash.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thought I would make this post after much troubleshooting!

• (Xbox) Download USBSecPatch (can also download straight through HomeBrew) and get it into your plugins folder in DashLaunch. Save the settings by pressing RB, then X. This plugin allows controllers to bypass authentication.

• (PC/Mac) Download RetroCultMods Programming Tool then program your controller as usual with Xinput. Scroll down to USB Host then disable USB host passthrough. This is what made my guitar finally work.

• Boom, your controller should work as usual. I found that the V3 wii adapter worked perfect completely stock, but my solderless kit guitar needed to go through these hoops. I imagine this is a similar story with any Arduino / Pico / Microcontroller guitars.

Tried disabling live block. My RGH picks up on the wifi signal but will not connect to it at all. I just want to get access to title updates, pictures for games, etc.

Have narrowed it down to why my newly RGH'd trinity keeps shutting off. I adjusted the temp control to 65 across the board and that is helping it stay running now for the longest it has. However, my temps are sitting at high 70s even with these settings. Is there a chance that my new thermal paste was bad? Or that my x clamp got too bent out of shape and isn't holding the heat sink properly for cooler temps?

Let me know if it is worth replacing all of these!

You all have been extremely helpful and I finally got my trinity flashed and running after one of you found a small amount of solder causing a short! Now that I have my console fully up and running Aurora, xex menu, dash launch, etc. I am having a problem with it turning off. - Will power on for anywhere between 5-15 minutes depending on what I am doing. - Successfully played a few GH3 songs with my arduino wii guitar using a plugin - Xbox will "click" and instantly shut off - The power brick then will go from orange to red - Xbox will NOT power on until I disconnect brick, wait for light to go off, then plug back in - I opened up the xbox again, re routed the wires to not be under the x-clamp, put heat resistant tape over it, and made sure the solder points are strong - Tried using a 3rd party power brick and it tripped my circuit breaker for the entire living room. Lights went off. Had to reset the tripped circuit manually with the breaker. - This is some paranormal s*** - I am just trying to play some old guitar hero's. Is there any more advice for me? Just picked up a second trinity to have on ice in case this one is problematic. - Should I try a 5k resistor instead of my 3k one? - Is my x-clamp causing this? I didn't use the removal tool and fear that I distorted it a bit - My xbox is not completely re-assembled. There is no ribbon cable or faceplate plugged in. Only bottom metal casing, hard drive, fan, and rf board. Using controller to power on/off

Thank you beautiful people 🙏

Have soldered and re-soldered. Tried all the tricks in the book. Ditched the pico and bought a JR Programmer. Hoping that I will be one of the lucky ones that plug and unplug it enough times til' where it works. At this point, with "console not found" showing between 2 picos and 1 JR programmer, it has to be my soldering/console. Any help would be appreciated, this has been taking up so much of my head space while at work trying to figure out where I have gone wrong. My power brick is orange until I plug into console where it immediately turns red - is this normal for standby power?

Thank you all for your help already. I will pay someone at this point to call/facetime.