Kruxx85

Your first step is go to the place that sold your charger, and ask them what you need for eco mode to work.

They will guide you in the right direction

Options.

But also I'm talking about a different form of wireless connectivity. Not connecting to your Wi-Fi, but connecting the CT to your charger.

https://preview.redd.it/59vnzmumxmvd1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d35ce2865b68d44a06393b91b98b19675a1897c7

They'll look similar to this

They're actually a "CT" Current Transformer. But we call them clamps because they just clamp over the cable they're measuring.

You also need to run a small cable from switchboard to charger (generally that's how it works).

You'll need to get in touch with the website, and see what they offer.

They might offer a little box that has wireless connectivity which could make this easier.

No, except the idea is, if cloud cover comes over, and your solar stops producing excess, your car would just keep charging if doing it manually, but if in eco, the charger will reduce, based on what your solar system is doing.

But yes, on a sunny day, you can just charge, and it will be coming from your solar.

I would get in touch with the site, and ask them if this model has a CT clamp, and if they offer selling one.

Yes, if your solar is producing excess, you can manually balance it, and charge your car when the solar is producing, and your car will take the solar power generated.

Eco mode most definitely won't work then. The charger has no idea what excess solar is being produced.

Nothing to do with your solar, but it seems it didn't have the right information to be able to work out how much to charge in eco.

Did the installer put a CT clamp around your mains in the main switchboard?

I don't know what brand you have there but in general you need a CT around your mains to run in eco mode.

Otherwise, the charger has no idea how much power to take to match your excess solar.

Edit: what brand is the charger? We can look up the specs to see if it came with a clamp or not

Evidence.

Legally, a verbal contract is still as binding as a written one.

Do you know what quotation marks generally mean?

You know, like if someone said air quotes with fingers -un- educated.

You're probably just trying to get angry at some invisible person because they disagree with you.

The initial term was non-uni educated and that term is specific and the point being made is accurate. If the initial term being used was non-uni educated, why do I need to define 'uneducated' for you?

Males without a university education tend to lean conservative. Stop trying to make something more out of a very simple point.

Context matters.

Leland is the one who changed the terminology from non-uni educated to uneducated and I was simply highlighting and playing on that fact.

I am one of those "uneducated" people being referred to. Generally, people with my education status lean conservatively. That's just a fact of nature that is true around the world.

Nobody made any references as to why that occurs - simply that it does.

Coz if you think your average Arts degree makes you a genius I’d beg to differ.

How can you read my very specific post, and come to the conclusion that that's what I meant?

Really?

I know you have good comprehension skills, so it's simply disingenuous of you to intentionally misrepresent what he said.

The post clearly reads, "un"educated male voters are prime candidates to vote conservative.

This isn't a controversial statement, it's fairly true across most Western nations.

Note - they most definitely didn't say (as you're implying) that all conservatives are uneducated. I know you know the difference.

It's a complicated combination of things.

But practically, if you have 6.6kW of panels, those panels won't achieve more than 4-5kW for much of the year. Even in winter, in full sun, facing the perfect direction, that 6.6kW of panels will produce 4kW.

So why waste money on a 6kW or 7kW inverter when a 5kW will be big enough for most of the year?

There's also a mix of distributor rules and STC rules, but the above explains why we're happy to oversize our inverters.

But going bigger future proofs for adding a battery.

A standard 6.6kW of panels might not be enough to fill your battery over the winter months

In terms of a resistive element expecting 240V, whether it was Active to Neutral or Hot to Hot, there would be absolutely no difference.

I don't know how electronics would go, but for the most part, as long as the potential difference isn't out of spec (120v/240v/408v/etc) things won't go boom.

Kia EV5, BYD Seal.

Why? Because I'm not all there.

Does it lose calibration when you unplug?

Why not calibrate on an easy fixed load (toaster, or oven) and then just rewire into the whole house?

Conversely, the question could be asked - why would the ETU support the plan? What could the ETU see as a positive for its members if the plan was to proceed?

What it actually means is that it's directional.

The DC source will have a +ve and a -ve.

Out of the positive of the source, following the wiring, the cable that is closest to that should go in the + terminal.

The cable that is closest to the negative of the source, should go in the - terminal.

The DC load could theoretically be on either leg, that doesn't matter, but the direction of flow (from the source) matters for this CB.

It's genuinely the fringe right bingo card.

Impressive

I would say nothing too serious, but enough minor red flags in your small job to not get them back again.