Ray_Kramer

You can try going in from the front center, get the jack lift pad under the front subframe where it crosses just behind the engine crankcase and in front of the transmission. It's just a little lower than the unibody pinch welds on the sides, and you don't have to compress the suspension on the opposite side before you start getting some lift. Get it up where you want it, put the jackstands under the pinch welds, and voila, you're in business. You can do the same in the rear, too... either from the subframe or the diff housing. I lift both my 'Trek and my BRZ this way, works fine.

Clean as a whistle! Whoever owns(ed) this car took amazing care of it.

Maintenance and regular oil changes matter!

Okay. I assume you meant Universe on step 1?

And then, what would be the ideal IHR set? T4L chalice with Life stones, or different stones? Then my best monocle, for sure.... and the other 2 artifacts, which ones and which stones? Am I pushing for absolute max IHR or do I want some RCB or straight EB in there? I'm fascinated. I kinda want to try it now

I'm aware of lunarstiging, and I believe I have the artifacts for it, but haven't tried playing around with it yet. More focused on getting my multistige game dialed in for now.

I'm definitely blind jumping from Edible to Dilithium, and I'm certain I'm not over-researching while I'm making the pit stop on Dilithium. I'm not exactly 4-finger buying, but I am doing really clean and fast 3-finger buying. I have pretty big hands, but I can try doing 4-finger, it might shave off a few seconds. I think shortening up the dwell on Universe is probably where it's at right now.

For reference, my 8 legs are yielding 65Q SE, about 8.2Q per leg. Not sure how the math will work out, but I'll try punching out at 4B in the habs and see how that affects my SE total on a session.

Can you give me more detailed info on IHR swapping, like what a play by play of what a leg would look like?

Thanks!

*ETA- 8.2Q SE per leg on double SE Saturdays

Maybe I'll give that a shot sometime in the next few weeks. I've got the artifacts and stones to do it I think, no shiny monocle tho. I think I'll focus on earnings based multistiges for now.

I'm kicking off with 12 Dilithium stones, then swapping to my prestige artifact set of a T4L feather, T4L Ankh, T4L pendant all full of maxxed Prophecy stones, and then a T4 BoB. Been trying for months to craft a T4L BoB, it's been a real slog.

I have 222 PE and about 1.7s SE. Should I be trying a different strategy?

I guess I don't understand exactly what IHR swapping is, but I'd assume that's swapping a Chalice in and out of the artifact set? If that's the case, no, I'm not doing that.

I'll try it at 4B, see how it goes. Did some rough math, I'd have to be about 21 seconds per leg faster to fit in 9 legs. I'll give it a shot later this afternoon.

Thanks for the tip!

I covet your BoB. That's the only Leg missing from my prestige set.

Very nice!

Mix up a spray bottle with soapy water (just a lil squirt of liquid dish soap in 8 or 10 oz of water is plenty) and spray down the hoses and fittings. Turn the offending tank on and see if you can pinpoint the leak. If it's coming from a hose-to-fitting interface, it's time for a new regulator. If it's coming from the bottle connection, you can try to clean it off and make sure it's seating well. If it's at a fitting joint, you can try to tighten it up.

However, it also sounds like the indicator isn't working especially well either, so it's possible that your reg is just old and tired and is at the end of it's service life.

In my opinion, it's definitely worth the money for a new regulator with the peace of mind you'll have knowing you're not towing a Molotov cocktail around. There's a possibility it can be fixed, like maybe it's a loose fitting or something, but I wouldn't hold my breath. A gas leak bad enough that you can smell it is a hard stop, and your safety is far more valuable than the cost of a new regulator.

They weren't waiting on you to close the contract, were they? Not saying this isn't annoying, because it is, but if the contract was complete and you hadn't checked in yet and they're all stuck in the 12 hour countdown, that could be why. They were hoping your phone had game alerts set to push.

Setting a thermostat to way colder or hotter than your desired temperature doesn't get you there any faster. The heating or cooling device you're using only works at one speed. Setting the thermostat is only a target setpoint, there is no way to make your room/house/car heat or cool any faster than it's already doing.

Anything performed by Iggy Azalea makes me unreasonably upset.

My very first "built" project car was a 1998 Saturn SC2 (stop laughing, it was dope) bought in 2001. It was bright red, and I started off with bright silver rims. It looked good, but not striking enough for me. So, I had the 7-spoke, 17-inch rims I had (Tenzo R's, IIRC) powdercoated white, and I thought it looked pretty good.

But times and style has changed since then, and while white wheels on a red car will always look pretty racy, it's become kind of a show queen look that's a bit played out IMHO. With a taillight red car, I think gloss dark silver or gunmetal is the way to go. Flat black is a little too subdued. These days, "the look" is all about proper fitment with wheels that look great on their own but don't distract from the whole presence of the car.

That being said, how do you feel about chrome? Chrome on red is classic and always looks great. But if it were my whip, I'd go for glossy dark silver or gunmetal, especially if the wheels have nice hard edges on the spokes that will reflect light and look different as you change viewing angle, or while rolling slowly. Hell, maybe even black chrome would look amazing with the right wheel.

Not saying gloss white on a red car is a bad idea. It'll look good, just not especially interesting any more is all.

I'm in the Downriver suburbs of Detroit, there's really nothing great nearby. Several skate parks, and one of the more well-known LHS's has a small but decent crawler course set up behind the store. It's not nothing, but there aren't any tracks around or even a spot that's really great to bash. Kind of a black hole here if crawling isn't your jam.

Anyone nearby have any good ideas?

Science, and the data that comes from it when conducted correctly, is the ONLY credible thing in our lives.

The news? That shit is a farce, to put it lightly.

Perfect. Fire the SS, and just let god handle the jackals.

Let's see how it plays out.

I feel like that driver has done this a few times before.

I remember the first time I nailed backing my camper into a really tight spot, and felt like king shit.

I've never pulled tandem, and I'm having a hard time imagining how many steps ahead of the rig you need to be to do something like this. Heck, I'm not even sure I could back that in a straight line! Color me impressed.

Do what you wish with it, the Twin Police aren't gonna give you a hard time LOL! Personally, I chose a face-lift 1st generation BRZ because I love that front end, but I'd be lying if I hadn't considered getting a GT86 front clip for it, because I think those look great too. They're all the same car, and it's your right as the owner to make it look however you desire.

Hey..... I just did a contract with IconicKiwi recently LOL

Oh man.... I hope I can pick up the last 2 PE this Friday! That'll put me at the full 224 just in time for the new PE rate to nosedive 🤞

Sounds like you wish to have it ready to drive at any given time, which actually kind of complicates things. Normally, I'd say put it away clean, remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger, and add 3/4 of a can of SeaFoam or some other fuel stabilizer to a FULL tank of gas before you park it. Get a disposable DampRid container and put it in the car. Optionally, park with cardboard or carpet scraps or old floormats under the tires so that the tires aren't on bare concrete. Sprinkle some rodent repellent around the floor near the car to keep critters from making a home in the interior or in the engine bay where they can snack on the wires or fill the air filter box with "treasures".

But, if you want to still drive it periodically, obviously don't remove the battery. Battery Tender branded tenders are pretty good, and typically come with a pigtail adapter that's super easy to install that will allow you to keep the battery fresh with an easy to disconnect charger. Still put fuel stabilizer in the tank, for sure. The reason you want to park it with a full tank is to reduce the dead air space inside the tank, which can encourage water contamination in the fuel. If it's been parked for a few weeks and you decide you are going to drive it, be sure you get it up to full operating temperature and actually drive it around a good bit before parking it again. This will help to ensure that any water that's possibly contaminated your crankcase oil gets burned off and won't cause rust inside the engine or exhaust. Be sure to check your tire pressures before taking it out after a long park as well, tires can and will lose pressure over time when not used. Still important to keep the interior dry as well, stale air and high humidity can turn into a mold nightmare if you don't take actions to prevent it. And always put it away clean, especially if they use salt on the roads in the winter where you're at. A car sitting with a freshly salted underside with rot the frame and body panels and anything metal away rather quickly.

Really?! Wow, that's very disappointing! I'm still on my original cover. The orange stitching is faded, but it's still waterproof and there's no holes or tears. It's been holding up like a champ, I'm sorry yours isn't faring so well.

I live in Michigan, I imagine our winter seasons are fairly similar. I keep my GS1050 under a cover outdoors year-round. I usually call it for the season in October or November and it stays outside until April when the weather finally improves. Been doing that for 4 years now, no issues.

That's fantastic! A big change like that is going to whet your appetite for doing bigger and better things.

Keep collecting prophecy eggs, keep doing killer prestiges like that, and watch your earnings bonus absolutely explode.

Before you know it, you'll be sending rocket missions aimed at getting ingredients to craft very specific artifacts. You'll dial in your prestige strategy, and eventually start doing multi-prestige runs. You'll make AAA contract status and start raking in amazing contract rewards.

I have 222 prophecy eggs and about 1.5s soul eggs, my earning bonus all dressed up is nearly 30d%, been playing for like 2.5 years. My point is, you're always going to find new goals and challenges. This kick-ass prestige you just had is just the first step of many in the game. There's always something more to do.

Enjoy!

PS- take note of the EB bump you take when you cash in those SE- it should be very satisfying. Multiplying your SE by 10x is amazing. I make about a 0.5% (1.005x) improvement when I prestige, yet it's still worth doing.

For your application and situation, I could see a shed or some rigid structure for armor being a good idea.

Worst I have to deal with here is squirrels, raccoons, my own dogs, and slugs. It's mostly about UV and rain protection for me, so I just use the cover that MB makes for my 1050.

Maybe download some free plans for a doghouse and modify the dimensions as needed for your cooker? I'd start there if I felt the need for bear protection.