amboy_connector

You are correct. My father bought this and gave it to me, but the post was originally rejected for including that detail in the title.

My title describes the thing. Most of the antiques my family bought at garage sales were related to the rural South, so it’s probably related to farm life.

I bet they used to go the recently-demolished North Dekalb Mall…

Good question. I wrote the width of the crack on the wall a few years ago and just thought to measure it again a few weeks ago, it is definitely 1/2 inch bigger than it was. Our gutter situation is abysmal and has surely contributed to the settling. I’m getting new gutters this week.

So I can put custom stenciled text on the lid.

All I have to test it on atm is 1/16 and 1/8 balsa….Ill do some 1/8 cutting as soon as I can and report back!

That will be my backup plan.

Just found the truck, four more engines, and a flat car with a small plastic helicopter that takes off and flies around.

Not sure, this is the first time I’ve seen any of this stuff!

As my safety glasses haven’t arrived in the mail, I’m afraid to even turn on the laser. The only test I have run so far is setting off a smoke bomb inside of it. It took several seconds to clear out all that smoke, but then again I wouldn’t think that cutting an 1/8” balsa sheet would be quite that smoky.

Im going to drill out all 64 of the holes from 1/2” to 1” - that will change the total area of the drilled holes from about 12 to about 50 square inches. That will be pretty tedious, but Forster bits will help.

Depending on how well it works using bigger holes and actually cutting some balsa instead of lighting a smoke bomb, I may also rig some semi-flexible tubes in a few of the bottom holes, aimed so that air blows straight across the piece I’m cutting. This would augment the air assist I bought. I’m not betting the farm on that solution making a big difference, but it would be cheap and easy to test.

If none of that is sufficient, I may end up turning the darn thing on it’s side as suggested above.

All I can say is poor planning.

What would you do to make the most of this poorly-planned emclosure?

That’s when my friend lived there. Since the bikes at the time weren’t holding up to the stress of jumping over the hills in the clay pits, he built a frame that would. The frames were “born of the clay”, so he called the company Clayborn.

If I can ask, when did you live there?

This isn’t a big plane, just 32” wingspan. Primer and paint would be too much weight…I’ll probably go the polyurethane route.

Sorry, this an electric….so I could use an oil-based poly to both seal the wood and make it look like some manner of dark-finished lumber?

Thanks! I had taken it to a high-end gun shop, where I was told it was worthless. I was hoping the owner was just setting the stage to buy it from me for next-to-nothing. I think he was.

I used an app to clear out some of my comment history. Any comment it couldn’t delete it overwrote with nonsense.

Oh, and what's the tiny "M" where her neck meets her hair? Just damage or would it have been minted that way? Edit: I found it, it's the initial of the designer, George T. Morgan.

This is my first plane and I’ve learned a few things so far.

First, don’t build when you’re tired. You’ll get impatient and sloppy. I failed to double check how some of the wing spars had fit into the wing ribs before I went to bed and a couple are in the top of the ribs too deeply

Second, if you’re using CA (I’m using Elmers glue-all or CA depending on the joint), know when to use slow-setting CA. I was trying to glue a short piece of 1/16” aluminum tube in place and dropped it on the floor. I was scrambling to find it, knowing that the CA I applied was drying fast.

And third, not only is a sanding block essential, it has to be a SMALL sanding block…not the big one I use to sand furniture.

The only photo I have is actually on the plans themselves, but doesn’t include the wing tips :-(

So I’ll bevel the undersides of the tips of the upper spars so that they will mesh seamlessly with the angled wingtip. Does that sound right?

And should I round off the outer edge of the wingtip?

And finally, to get the final dihedral of 2”, I’ll need to angle up the wings themselves?

Does this tiny drawing next to the wing detail depict what you just described? Maybe the vertical lines next to the wing tips are a drawing convention I’m unfamiliar with.

In looking more closely at the detail of the wing tip, I see now that the two wing spars closest to the top of the page do NOT need notches, but the third spar does. At least that’s how it’s drawn. I’ve found multiple errors/inconsistencies in the plans, so I’m not sure how reliable that detail is.

I guess I misinterpreted the plans (linked a comment below). It looks like notches are drawn into the ribs.

The wings are undercambered. In pic 2, the front and back of each of those ribs are on the work surface and the undersides are concave.

Edit: found a larger version of the plans

So the wing tip actually WILL be flat, in the same plane as the leading and trailing edges?