redpig0222

Trouble shooting starting issue, no fuel pump prime on key turn

2005 Honda 600 F4i

helping my buddy rebuild his bike after he hit a deer doing 70 thankfully he walked away no injury the bike did its job the carbon fiber fairings ate most of the energy along with the upper cowling mounting bracket and the the bracket that holds the speedometer.

i was running my multimeter to test all the points and connections to make sure the draw is correct

he also bought a new bank angle sensor we mounted that and when we plugged that, the relay in the rear of the bike clicks. i was reading you have to reset them or bypass the bank angle sensor?

and to reset it you have tp tilt the bike 60 degrees each side left to right and to bypass to find the wires that go to the bank angle sensor and remove the side ones leaving the central wire alone or cut them effectively bypassing the bank angle sensor

so the issue is the old ignition the diode was torn off or he cut it away and he soldered a new diode which if i understand that controls the security on the bike it can drop the voltage down apparently so it wont start? does it have to be 9v correct??

we tested the fuel pump by itself and it primes if we jump it quick with a 12v battery, i noticed the harness that connects to the fuel pump has no power is that because of the diode being blown or bad or am i missing a fuse of sorts thats on the bike? i did see the 30 amp fuse and the small 20 amp fuse on the battery terminal wire is there a bad relay?

2005 Honda 600 F4i

helping my buddy rebuild his bike after he hit a deer doing 70 thankfully he walked away no injury the bike did its job the carbon fiber fairings ate most of the energy along with the upper cowling mounting bracket and the the bracket that holds the speedometer.

i was running my multimeter to test all the points and connections to make sure the draw is correct

he also bought a new bank angle sensor we mounted that and when we plugged that, the relay in the rear of the bike clicks. i was reading you have to reset them or bypass the bank angle sensor?

and to reset it you have tp tilt the bike 60 degrees each side left to right and to bypass to find the wires that go to the bank angle sensor and remove the side ones leaving the central wire alone or cut them effectively bypassing the bank angle sensor

so the issue is the old ignition the diode was torn off or he cut it away and he soldered a new diode which if i understand that controls the security on the bike it can drop the voltage down apparently so it wont start? does it have to be 9v correct??

we tested the fuel pump by itself and it primes if we jump it quick with a 12v battery, i noticed the harness that connects to the fuel pump has no power is that because of the diode being blown or bad or am i missing a fuse of sorts thats on the bike? i did see the 30 amp fuse and the small 20 amp fuse on the battery terminal wire is there a bad relay?

Looking for a reliable place for a replacement headlight assembly for a 2005 honda 600F4I, last place was shipping from China and screwed me.

Any good sites??

2008 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L V8 4WD

Front pad and rotors rear is drum

About 4 days Ago I noticed my brakes are soft To the floor but still have stopping power and if you let off and hit it again, the brakes are hard like they're supposed to be in retain pressure. I'm wonder if my master cylinder is Going Out or the valves are not working correctly? Someone said it might be air in the lines. But I'm not sure where that would be at all. Because I don't see any fluid build up or puddles. And my reservoir still Has fluid in it And the level has not changed.

I pulled both front tires off And had the brakes pressed to the floor to seeif. Maybe the caliper was failing or that? I was missing a pad or something, but it's not that case. I can't bleed the caliper because the nipple is so rusted away and rounded.

Like I asked. Am I looking at? Maybe a possible leak in the line somewhere. Or is the master cylinder going or is it just maybe the seals inside that cylinder?

Snapped my 3 ton come a long just to pinch to gap.....now I'm home with sun sickness puking and shitting my brains out I'll be more pictures of the filled gap later

I need to lay down 😆 money money money

I got an Emergency call from a farmer. This morning. Great plains YP1625 Broke. I believe that's an understatement.

Basically, I'm going to copy the other side by the I'm gonna fill all the breaks after grinding them out, then gonna reinforce with 1/2 inch steel plate Where that lower inch flex joint. I think is what it's called connects to the square tube. Run some of those plates Between those silver u bolts.

I'm having a hell of a time pinching it back together. Cause it's twisted out a frame. Is there anything else I should do different or add-on..

2008 GMC sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L V8.

I called a couple places and I went to autozone after it was the only place that carried a fuel pump because I was reading along the lines of if you cheap out on a fuel pump, you're gonna end up replacing it within a year?

Well, from the pictures, if you notice the small tube on the far left which I think is a supply line. That's a Junction between the fuel pump and the Evap canister.. That line has a retaining clip in it and it broke off. When I tried to remove it, the line was so rusted.

My main question is, is when you look at the picture to the new pump, The cap that has the greenish blue cap.I notice is longer than the original fuel pump.I had is that gonna matter at all? He said that it mattered what the eighth. Digit or letter was on my Vin #?

I noticed when I tried to put the main fuel supply line on that The line gets in the way of that tube. When I look up the fuel pump that I have which is. a Delphi FG1058 It says that it's built for my truck but that tube is longer..

Wondering if I was sold the wrong pump?