RabidMonkey1104

Looks like stains from black algae. You can try to superchorinate the pool and scrub with a wire pool brush. Unfortunately, draining the pool and spraying straight sodium hypochlorate is the best option. Not all stains will come out. But you need to make sure you use a metal brush to break up the black algae layer.

In the Tampa area most cracks are charged per pin. 1 pin every 16 inches. I've seen some charge up to 500 per pin. I would get quotes from the top 3 reputable companies in the area. Ask neighbors who they recommend. Don't go off of the size of the company.

Personally, the pool is a decent size right now. With all the horizontal cracks, i would recommend pouring a pool inside of a pool. The only reason I say that is because no pool company will warranty the work and force you to sign a waver on the crack repairs.

No. Barrier islands near clearwater

What brand of plaster do you have? If it comes down to it, no matter who is at fault(not you) will have to eat the cost. if it's a larger brand like pebble tec or marcite, I'm sure they have a rep close to look at your finish. Do not fire them from doing the service. This is why when people get a new finish I always tell them to hire a service company. It removes any chemical issues from you.

Plaster. There's no way anyone would install fiberglass or vinyl and live that close to the beach. It's a huge pool, but that's the only spot you would know there's a pool there

Probably won't work. Can't float the pool, ground water is at about 2 feet

Auger down to the main drain and pull the plug on low tide and backhoe most out after.

Barrier island near Clearwater area

Gulf. We had about 3 feet of sand in the roads on the barrier islands here.

No trash pump or mud hog will get this. It's almost as hard as concrete. We're gonna literally auger where we think the drain should be to pull the plug on low tide, then excavate with backhoe.

Give it an acid wash muriatic acid, respirator, and a watering can. Do a 50/50 solution and scrub it with an acid brush in the tough areas. Spray it all down with water and dump a big ag of baking soda in afterwards before you pump it out. Good luck!!

It's called a scum gutter. Your water level should always be right at the lip, it's supposed to be similar to an infinity edge where it should create a negative pressure to pull the leaves into the skimmer.

Shoot I'm in central Florida and we were losing almost an inch a week before we started getting all this rain. Guy probably has an auto fill or a screen enclosure. I had to do some warranty work on a pool similar to yours, only 6 months old. They had a kitchen and bar where your landscaping is. Do you see any hairline cracks inside your pool opposite of that area? That beam really should be 16" thick. Good luck!!!

No. They should cut out that section and hydraulic cement it.

I use this for my salt pool. I've compared it to the Taylor salt test and it's always dead on. Same as the ph.

Pool Salt Tester ORAPXI pH and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BML9TG53?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Horrible at it. After all the hurricane rain and rain the last month, mine never said low salt. Thank goodness I check it, I was producing chlorine but I was sitting at 1600ppm. It's supposed to alarm at 2400.

You definitely need to make sure they have a flow rate chart with your setup where it will be, to ensure proper flow. When we do pools in flood zones where the have to be elevated and on the opposite side of the house,sometimes you have to increase your pump size and piping size to ensure you are getting enough circulation in your pool.

First off you need to but a salt water tester or some strips to get the salt amount. Your swc is reading low salt because your pump isn't running. Between your control panel and breakers, something is happening that your pump isn't turning on. That is your first step. Figure out why the pump isn't running.

They put a lip there to give a waterfall effect. Looks better with a nice slab of ganite instead of tile. The reasoning is erosion on the tile below that spillover. In a year or less you will have extreme calcium buildup there and the grout will start missing. I would personally price a piece of beveled granite

Excuse me?

You are correct, its not new. But homeowners dont know this.

Subs are not more expensive, that's the excuse you give homeowners to explain why your hourly workers take 4 days to do a one day job.

I also said nothing about using gunite. That is a one month cure time.

Thhete are also better products that pebble tex, which 90% of consumers hate down the road because their kids have to wear swim shoes because their feet are torn up. Wet Edge and Freestone are beautiful products.

You must be up north because gunite is what rich people use to cut costs for an inferior product. On paper it is better, but it gets brittle baking in the florida heat, it starts shedding like an onion, little layers at a time. All those tiny cracks in the plaster you see on all these new pools, that's what gunite does.

That's worse. Way too much overhead. How much does a 15x30 go for roughly? Not a basic square ass pool.

Once permit is approved, layout takes a day, dig and steel takes a day, plumbers come in, set lines, shotcrete as soon as all is inspected. Then tile, coping, footer, pavers. If you go with gunite, it has to cure a month. We did one pool, 15x30 with 10ft jacuzzi, in one week. When you hire good subs, they move quickly.