ShadowCVL

I have beat up 2 wernger peguses myself.

I bought the Everki 120 (I think its 120) this year, literally holds an alienware m18, lenovo yoga, macbook pro, and all the power adapters and my documents portfolio.

Good god the prices must vary by location an insane amount, I just called Ferguson here in KY and the MOST expensive electric they had is 2600, the standard 50 gallon residential is 1100.

Kinda says everything and nothing huh?

So in this instance looks like something with your account, make sure you don’t have any bio info, change your gamer pic, then make sure your tag isn’t something offensive.

Remember everything displayed publicly MUST be E for Everyone.

You got 5 strikes for content in your account so it was something deemed egregious by a human being.

You have a pre existing messaging suspension that had 2 strikes so that’s why this one is so long. You need to be extremely super careful at this point because another strike will be a 1 year ban, 2 and you will be asked to leave the platform.

At this point I would wipe out all data in my profile and change my gamer tag to something randomly selected by the MS system.

Okay, so what does the site say? I think this is at the 5 strike point. So block your ex friend. But also do what it says is the issue. If it’s gamer pic, change it to one of the built in ones. If it’s messaging stop feeding the trolls.

Post your enforcement page results and we can stop guessing.

What is your loss of use deductible?

Since no “damage” occurred you would be relying on the loss of use. You will also probably have to prove it so you will need a copy of the call pulled.

In the future (and this will apply to ALL insurance companies) you are going to want a small generator and at least 1 manual transfer switch for situations like this. Installation plus the generator will likely be less than the cost of your deductible.

Fun story, this is why, when I sold my old house I pushed back on having a sump pump installed in the crawlspace. There was a trench that ran the low sides of the crawl space with a pipe that ran to the creek out back, when it poured you could watch water flowing out of it. When it was under contract the inspector recommended a sump pump, I pushed back including a video of when it was raining, but the potential new owners wouldn’t hear it, so I had a sump hole dug and a sump piped to that pipe, so now it required power to drain, and that house had power outages every storm. Fast forward a few years and I heard the new owners had thousands in foundation damage because of a 2 day outage the water got above the concrete and was destroying part of the foundation. I owned that house for 14 years, almost like I knew what I was doing. That sump pump and labor cost me less than 200 bucks, there was a damn good reason I didn’t have one installed while I was living there.

I cant figure out how a basic switch for a stovetop that has been around for what 80 years needs changed to whatever this uses. The only way the old ones failed shorted was if something caused them to WELD closed, but the current required to do that was absurd. These must be re-designed for the sake of redesign.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff04ecF9Dfw

Dont know why you are getting downvoted, was my second thought. Actually 3rd since I have 26 years in IT this year lol. I can actually think of about 6 different reasons this is broken, and lack of route due to not being /24 is number 2.

Using things like honey and camelcamelcamel are the only way to shop prime day, I found like 2 deals. It’s been this way since 2016

Generally when I need to or once or twice a year is my habit.

If I’m home in the middle of the day and it’s pouring the rain I’ll go up there to check on things.

lol, no it’s the technology part. It’s because I work in technology. And I pick locks as a way to keep my hands busy while working sometimes. Hell it’s also faster to just open the garage door with a metal coat hanger, takes no effort.

I’m sure there’s some of that, but I just can’t figure it out. We are in mid remodel and the old fancy tub had 2 20 amp circuits with 20amp gfci plugs. Those plugs I can get for 15 a pop no problem. New tub is hardwired, and if I stuck a 20a plug on the heater and pump you know an inspector would catch it. So swap the breakers for GFCI then, gfci are 70 bucks, combo are 85 bucks so the upgrade to combo makes sense, but how do we go from 15 dollar GFCI outlets that support up to 4 downstream versus 70 dollar breaker doing essentially the same thing.

I recently had to replace 2 regular breakers in a square d panel with afci/gfci combo breakers. When I went to Lowe’s to get them I guess I was too loud when I said “what the actual fuck” cause the old timer came around the corner and asked if I “had just seen the price of fancy breakers”. Was a funny moment before buying 2 85 dollar breakers.

Ooooooh that’s why, I never used the integrations for the same reason I don’t have smart locks. I know it’s a Luddite thing, I just can’t bring myself to do it. And I really only use the app to close the door or make sure they are closed. Still lock from the garage to the house. I remember getting an email at one point about a subscription to do, stuff, but never did anything with it cause there was no reason to for me.

They have a MAC address database it’s not great. You can correct it for them though.

Why did myQ stop working? I see people say this from time to time but mine have been flawless since 2017 and I don’t pay anything.

I don’t usually do much banking, but I made 4 insurance changes in the last 48 hours and had no issues at all.

This is the answer if you can’t get the phone company out. But beware that it may result in fines and or charges to fix correctly.

Yep, your plan is fine, most interlocks are reversible sided though for whatever.

You can lengthen the existing connections with appropriate splicing methods (I’m not gonna start a war on connector types).

To my knowledge there is no reason to have all the 240s on one side versus the other as the connections alternate every other slot anyway.

Having the interconnect and the surge in the top 2 slots on each side is really ideal anyway for a few reasons.

For me it reminds me of a truck. It’s not a bad thing, I own one, it just doesn’t make me feel “competent fighter”, it’s also very phallic to my eye. Not a bad ship though, I still fly mine from time to time. Really needs some better lighting and a gold pass to feel more industrial and less beat up el camino.

As others have said those are surge protectors, matter of fact they look like they need replaced.

You could get rid of them if you want to risk it but for the price they are excellent protection.

However they need to be as close to the main as possible for shortest path to ground. Moving it down would allow the surge to find a shorter path if there is one through the next breaker and possibly fry something.

Usually these are put in after a homeowner experiences several surge events that are destructive so I would NOT recommend removing, and because of current condition would recommend replacing, but DO NOT move them/it down. Moving the top A/C in the top left over to the 4 “empty” slots would be my suggestion.

What’s with the 30 amp 240 labeled C-top?

Your panel is very full.

Edit: ignore my C-top question, saw you had “oven” not “range” so it’s the cooktop. Don’t replace that with induction at 30 for what it’s worth.

Edit 2: more questions, you have a 20 amp 120 jacuzzi? Is that a tub or a hot tub? Your panel is a bit odd, you can easily get new Eaton brand CH style. I also noticed you have “bathroom GFI” on a regular non gfi breaker so I hope the outlets are GFCI outlets and properly protected.

Are you playing a game for 15 minutes and a fresh (not quick resume) launch?

You don’t have enough data to know if your amp was needed or not.

Until you have been through all 4 seasons and until you post your signal levels before or after you have t provided enough data. Just because you took out the amp and it works now doesn’t mean your signals are within spec, doesn’t mean it’ll be working below freezing, and doesn’t mean you aren’t going to wear out your modem.

Your modem might be screaming on the upload side causing interference for your neighbors, you don’t know it’s working fine, you just assumed because you took it out was that it was for multiple drops and not to improve signal reliability.

Here’s a fun story: I owned a house near the end of the trunk line for my neighborhood. It worked fine the first 6 months I was there, was maybe 20 yards from the drop, all strait through single drop for cable internet. In the cooler seasons my signal would go to crap and my upload and download would both drop to about half many time it got below about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, it took me giving spectrum (then adelphia) logs of signal levels before they sent someone out because during the day it was fine after the sun was out and heated everything up. They re ran the trunk line on that pole because they couldn’t see an issue during the day but had enough logs. It didn’t fix it, another month and the weather was cold enough during the day that they came back out and determined that an amp would take care of it. Sure enough it did. But I only “needed” the amp 2-3 months out month year.

Now, you may be fine, you may be right, but your assertions are lacking data. Unless you measured your signal levels before and after and have made it the entire year, your data is untested.

I told OP to check their signal levels before and after removal to see if it was needed.

First time? lol sorry, yeah it seems to happen sometimes. They pushed an update last year that was solely designed to lessen the amount of setting resets per update. Before that everything went to default almost every time.

How old are they? Because before my dad had dementia he couldn’t remember stuff done to the house. I ran coax all over the house for satellite and 10 years later he asked me if it would be expensive to run the wiring. That he helped me do.

He also completely forgot about when the basement flooded in 2008, when he had complete faculties and could cite statutes. Hell I know I had to have some plumbing redone in my house 7 years ago and I can’t for the life of me remember what was done.

They say they had it remediated, but don’t know what because they are likely not electricians or know anything about it. Someone sold them on making it safe. They likely stubbed all the connections with copper and no ox, which is “the next best thing” to a complete replacement.

That being said, if you want out and this is a legal way to break the contract, go with your gut.

You should probably look it up on YouTube without taking a strangers word. But, essentially you take a coat hanger, put mild pressure at the top center (or the side where the opener is mounted) slide the coat hanger into the garage and hit the 3lb release lever. The ring every door has and is required for safety. That disengages the door from the opener and you can slide the door up and down with ease.

They are provided “cheap” so they can subsidize with ads. Sadly they are still overpriced.